Time needed: Approximately 2 hours for a small project.

I completed my removable wallpaper installation in less than 2 hours. The total time required for your project will vary depending on the size and complexity of the surface area you are covering, as well as your experience level.

Step-by-Step Installation Guide

1. 1. Prepare Your Walls.

   The foundation of a successful wallpaper installation is a well-prepared wall. Your surface must be smooth, thoroughly clean, and completely dry. If your walls have any holes, cracks, or imperfections, plan to patch and sand them smooth at least a day before you intend to wallpaper. For detailed guidance, you can find my wall patching tips here. Furthermore, if your wall is currently painted a very dark color and your chosen wallpaper is light, I highly recommend applying a coat of primer. This prevents the dark color from potentially showing through your lighter wallpaper, ensuring the pattern’s true vibrancy. As a bonus tip, if you plan to paint any adjacent areas with a color that beautifully complements your new wallpaper, refer to my guide on how to match a paint color. Most importantly, if you do prime or paint your walls, allow the paint to fully cure for at least 7-14 days (check your paint can’s instructions). Applying wallpaper to uncured paint can cause bubbling or adhesion issues. This is what our linen closet looked like before I began its vibrant transformation.

2. 2. Prepare Your Removable Wallpaper.

   Each removable wallpaper brand may have slightly different preparation instructions, so it’s essential to consult the specific guidelines provided with your paper. For instance, if you order from a supplier like Spoonflower (as I did), you might need to re-roll your wallpaper so that the beginning (top) of the strip is on the outside of the roll. This makes the initial application much easier as you unroll it down the wall. Always check for specific pattern match instructions as well.

3. 3. Mark a Plumb Vertical Line on Your Wall Using Your Level.

   This step is absolutely critical and cannot be overstated. Do not assume your ceilings, floors, or corners are perfectly straight – they almost never are! You MUST use a level (a laser level is fantastic for this) to draw a perfectly plumb vertical line where your first strip of wallpaper will begin. This line will serve as your guiding edge. Without it, your wallpaper strips could gradually drift off-kilter, resulting in a noticeably crooked and unprofessional finish. Take your time to get this right, as the entire installation will depend on the accuracy of your first line.

4. 4. Start Hanging Your Wallpaper.

   You are now ready to begin the exciting part! Start applying your first strip at the left upper corner of your wall, aligning it precisely with the plumb vertical line you just marked. For my linen closet project, this meant starting at the top-left edge. Begin by peeling back only the top few inches of the paper backing. Carefully align the exposed edge of the wallpaper with your plumb line, ensuring it’s perfectly straight. This first piece is the most crucial, as it sets the stage for all subsequent strips, so take your time and be meticulous. The inherent beauty of peel and stick wallpaper is its forgiving nature: if your initial placement isn’t perfect (which happened to me!), simply peel it off gently and try again. No stress, no mess! Once satisfied with the alignment, use your squeegee to smooth the wallpaper into place. Work from the center outwards, pushing any trapped air bubbles towards the edges until they disappear. You might notice the ceiling in our linen closet was slightly slanted, which presented a minor challenge, but the repositionable nature of the wallpaper made it manageable.

   

5. 5. Continue Work in 5 to 10 Inch Increments.

   Once the top portion of your first strip is securely in place, continue working your way down the wall in manageable sections. Hold the roll of wallpaper with one hand, gently peeling the paper backing off only 5 to 10 inches at a time. This controlled approach prevents the large, sticky sheet from adhering incorrectly or folding onto itself, which can lead to frustrating wrinkles. As you expose each new section of wallpaper, immediately use your squeegee to smooth it onto the wall, pressing firmly and moving from the center out towards the edges. This continuous smoothing process helps to eliminate air bubbles and ensures consistent adhesion along the entire length of the strip. Maintaining this incremental method will help you maintain control and achieve a professional-looking finish.

   

6. 6. Cut the Wallpaper to Fit Around Trim or Other Obstacles.

   When you encounter obstacles such as door frames, window casings, light switches, or permanent fixtures, precision is key. Press the wallpaper firmly against the edge of the trim or obstacle. Using your sharp utility knife, make a few small relief cuts (slits) in the wallpaper towards the molding or fixture. These cuts allow the wallpaper to conform neatly around the shape. Once the cuts are made, gently press the wallpaper into the area around the obstacle, ensuring full adhesion. Then, carefully trim away any excess paper using your utility knife. I had to navigate around the shelf brackets in our linen closet, and while I initially felt a little apprehensive, the process proved to be surprisingly simple and straightforward. Take your time, make small cuts, and you’ll achieve a clean, custom fit.

   

7. 7. Cut Off the Excess Wallpaper.

   Once your first vertical strip of wallpaper is completely applied and smoothed onto the wall, you’ll likely have some excess material at the bottom. To achieve a clean, professional edge, use your utility knife to carefully trim this excess wallpaper. Press the blade firmly against the baseboard or the edge of the wall, and run your knife along it in a steady motion. A ruler or straight edge can be helpful here to ensure a perfectly straight cut. Remove the trimmed waste immediately to keep your workspace tidy.

   

8. 8. Repeat Until You Are Done!

   With your first strip perfectly in place, you now need to repeat the entire process for any remaining vertical runs until your entire wall is beautifully covered. Before applying each subsequent strip, be sure to consult your specific brand’s instructions regarding pattern matching and overlapping. Some brands require a slight overlap (e.g., 3/4 of an inch, as mine did) to ensure the pattern seamlessly aligns, while others are designed for butt-joint installation (where edges simply meet). For my wallpaper, overlapping by 3/4 of an inch was essential for the pattern repeat to match up flawlessly. When nearing the end of your wall, you may have only a small, narrow section left to cover. In this scenario, it’s often easiest to pre-cut a strip that is slightly wider (about an inch) than the area you need to cover. Then, repeat the steps above, carefully aligning it and smoothing it down. Finally, trim any excess wallpaper from the edge and the bottom using your sharp utility knife. Again, any initial hesitation I felt quickly dissipated as I found the process incredibly simple and satisfying. Continue this methodical approach, and your space will soon be transformed!